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Hello all,

Im pretty new to the forum type thing so bear with me. I bought a 2007 Tundra used earlier this year and it has been hands down my favorite truck I have ever owned. I come from a long line of shade tree mechanics so I cant leave anything alone... ever. CAI is something Santa will be leaving under the tree (im hoping he leaves a K&N), so now I'm thinking about a leveling kit (3/1) and from what Ive read I like Toy-tec but my question is, is I bought the truck with 285/65/R18 BFG A/T's on it. A 3/1 kit and I'll only be able to go a size bigger? I'm from Arkansas so I talk tire size in 32's or 33's etc... and the three number system makes my head hurt. The truck doesnt have much cant to it now but its def not level. Second question: Is there a way to lock the rear diff and not have the throttle limiter kick on when you start spinning? I want all the tires I can get pulling!!

Thanks!
Fred

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Good job man
Nice to let the "ponies" out to run every once in a while. The only problem is when you have less than 10thousand on it and already need new tires. (only on the rear tho..LOL) I really need to stop lighting them up so much....
I have 30K on my Michelins and they are looking weak. I light 'em up every once in a while but they bite pretty well on pavement.
Is this traction control button the RSCA control or something different? the LSD button doesnt change anything either?
Josh RSCA stands for Rolling Side Curtain Airbag. Thats for if you are doing some low speed climbing or some serious offroading so you can turn off the air bags that run along the A post up above the doors. I can't see too many people doing it now but it may be a handy button once people start roll caging their tundra and making them offroad machines only. The Traction button we always refer to is by your right knee when sitting in the drivers seat. It looks like the back of a truck with some peel out marks behind it.
My 2010 only breaks one tire loose when I turn off the traction control. Isn't it supposed to pull equally in the rear?
push and hold the button down for 5 seconds then release it then do it one more time and you should be good try that and let me know!
Traction control is what uses the computer to stop it from 'braking one loose'. Turn it off and you end up with one tire spinning if you really stomp it. We do not have a true locking rear differential, all we have is the traction control which uses a combination of the back brakes (controlled individually) and the nanny's in the computer to attempt to apply equal power (We also have a LSD which i will describe better in a second) A few have found out that it works ok for spinning tires on pavement during a launch but it is really crappy if you get stuck in a 2 wheel drive truck in mud or wet grass trying to go uphill. Jeremy Breaux has a thread on here describing his dislike of that system... poor guy had to be pulled out by a Chevy.

Check out this link to How Stuff Works to see how a rear differential works... http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential2.htm
great page with really good animations.

A few pages past the Open differential is a discussion on limited Slip differential. The limited slip is designed to HELP with traction during acceleration by forcing the truck to apply more equal power to each tire. But if you stomp it and one tire breaks free a lot sooner than the other one then the LSD won't be able to engage with enough force to start the other tire smoking as well. If you power brake or both tire so happen to brake free at exactly the same time then both will continue to spin as they are being applied exactly the same amount of torque.

A true locking differential is set up so both back tires spin at exactly the same time. Which is good for climbing soft gravel or drag racing but can be a pain going around corners. When cornering on dirt both back tires are pushing straight ahead instead of one tire going slightly fast (the outside tire) to facilitate the turn which decreases your turn radius by a decent margin. When cornering with a locked diff on concrete you will head a barking sound as one tire (the inside tire) peels out trying to spin at the same speed as the faster moving tire to the outside of the turn.
I used low range off road's 3/1" leveling kit and it works great! toy-tec may also be another option. I put 285/65/R20 goodyear wranglers on mine and they rub occasionally with the flap on the back of the well but nothing problematic just a nasty sound in a sharp turnaround. I would definitely recommend the low range off road kit though!!

Also, the K&N kit with the open box design does pull in the air heated by the engine, robbing it of serious power. I went to home depot and got some pipe insulator with a sticky double sided slit in the tubing and put that on the top of the box to seal it to the hood. the power increase was really noticeable.
I never liked the open top design of some intakes. There is only a relatively small hole out the side of the fender to grab fresh air, and without a TRULY sealed box it will draw more air from the compartment rather then sucking it in from the outside.
Every time I have had BFGs they seem to where out faster and grip less on pavement. I put Goodyears on my last truck and I was really happy with them. The tires griped a lot better when I was pulling my boat out of the water. I use to slide around on the wet ramp with the BFGs, And I got a lot more millage out of them. I will defiantly be getting a set for this truck next month.
Josh - can you post a pic of the mod? I may try that out to test the difference. But I'm not about to replace the whole kit with another brand when it does enough good as is.
sure I'll post one soon

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